In 2024, when replica TAG Heuer expanded the Aquaracer series to include the 40mm Professional 200 range, the collection became far more enticing. The 2020 redesign of the Aquaracer had already made it one of the most attractive dive watches available, but introducing the 40mm size alongside the existing 43mm and 45mm options opened the lineup to a broader audience. Earlier this year, during Watches & Wonders, replica TAG Heuer Aquaracer introduced six new models to the Aquaracer Professional 200 collection, including versions with precious metals. Among these, the 40mm two-tone models—available in steel with rose gold and steel with yellow gold—are the most appealing.
These 40mm two-tone models stand out because they aren’t as extravagant as the solid gold versions or the 30mm two-tone models with diamond indices released simultaneously. Instead, the 18k 5N rose gold and 18k 3N yellow gold used for the sunray-brushed bezel inserts and crowns add a touch of luxury without being overly flashy. While wearing them, I never felt the need to be overly careful; they felt like everyday watches with just the right amount of gold accents.
The cases have an angular design that doesn’t feel too sharp, featuring a primarily brushed finish—even the gold parts—keeping a sporty appearance. The 11.5mm thickness makes them sit comfortably flat on the wrist, reminiscent of the Formex Reef. The fitted strap contours nicely, enhancing comfort, while the screw-down crown is user-friendly and supports 200m water resistance. The bezel is not only aesthetically pleasing but also has a balanced feel that allows smooth operation without being easily nudged out of place.
The 20mm rubber straps are color-matched to the dials and are cut to fit precisely, avoiding any loose ends. They blend seamlessly with the watch, offering a comfortable wearing experience. Unfortunately, they don’t feature Clone TAG’s quick-adjust clasp, as seen on the Professional 300 series, which means fine adjustments require a tool. Although I didn’t get to size the strap to my wrist, the strap material felt comfortable, and the folding steel clasp was robust and slim, preventing extra bulk under the wrist. However, I still believe all of replica TAG’s tool and sports watches should feature the quick-adjust clasp. It would also be great to see these models offered with plain steel bracelets, allowing the two-tone bezels to shine.
The dials retain the Aquaracer design introduced in 2020. The rose gold version comes with a black dial, while the yellow gold version features blue, each with a subtle gradient and garage-door striping. Matching the cases, the hands and indices are plated in the respective golds and filled with ample Super-LumiNova. The date wheels are black, offering slight contrast, particularly on the blue dial, although it doesn’t detract significantly from the overall look. A nice touch is the gold-matching logos on the dials, unlike the white logos found on other Aquaracers.
The movements are hidden beneath an embossed compass rose on the stainless steel caseback, which is perfectly fine given that replica TAG’s basic movements are not particularly attractive. Both models use the Caliber 5 Automatic, based on the Swiss Sellita SW200, which operates at 28,800 vph but has a modest 38-hour power reserve. Considering what replica TAG is achieving with its chronograph movements, it’s a bit disappointing that its divers don’t receive similar attention. Although I’m not overly concerned with in-house versus third-party movements, at this price point and to compete with brands like Tudor and Oris, these watches should feature more advanced movements—at least a manufacture movement, like the Kenissi-made TH30-00 in the Professional 1000 Superdiver, or even a Sellita SW300 with its improved 56-hour power reserve would be a welcome upgrade.